By: Inoisell Miranda
Contributing Editors: Elisa Gelber & Jessica Fields.
Ever since I moved to New York 11 years ago, I have noticed the city’s energy shift a couple of weeks a year. An obvious increase of gorgeous “model looking” guys and girls running around in the subways, dressed in black with these big books in their hands, streets are lined up with black vehicles and limos, everyone that lives in the big apple, steps up their attire game and-or ventures with their wardrobe during New York Fashion Week. It all started during World War II, 70 years ago, when american fashionistas were not able to travel to Paris for the French shows and a fashion publicist by the name of Eleanor Lambert started the first ever “Press Week” in NY to showcase american designers. Buyers got an invitation to designer’s showrooms if they wanted to shop the collections, and only press members and fashion journalists were allowed. It became a massive success.
NY Fashion Week, branded Mercedes Benz Fashion Week since 2009, has become one of the most fascinating times of the year for all fashion enthusiasts, and your fashion editor was at Lincoln Center everyday, where it is currently held, attending over 20 shows, and has teamed up with the fabulous contributing editors Elisa and Jessica to bring you XEX Magazine’s favorite moments of the “Spring – Summer 2014 collections”. We began on Thursday, September 5th, New York City was overrun with some of the biggest celebrities and fashionistas of the industry. We saw everyone from E Entertainment Television’s Joan Rivers “Fashion Police” filming at the tent, to famous stylists like Patricia Fields with her crew and models presenting a collection right outside the tents, publicists and fellow editors such as Dani Stahl giving us a little bit of Madonna circa “Borderline” on our way to the Brian Lichtenberg presentation at Pier 59 Studios, where we ran into the queen of all media Perez Hilton and Nicky Hilton herself.
As per an undisclosed tradition, this season designers felt the love from endless A listers and celebrities trend setters who supported them, and had a first row look at their collections, Alyssa Milano at Marissa Webb, Nicki Minaj taking photos from her Iphone at the Herve Leger by Max Axria show, Paris Hilton was caught doing the same at Falguni & Shane Peacock, Kanye West was spotted chatting with Terry Richardson before Alexander Wang, and so were Mrs. J, Jay Manuel and June Ambrose at Custo Barcelona. The celebrity frenzy was also prominent at the groundbreaking Opening Ceremony show with guests stars that included Rihanna and Justin Bieber.
It is hard not to relate fashion week with celebrities, everyone comes out to support and-or party in the NYC. Even Lady Gaga flew back to her hometown after the ITunes festival concert she gave in London, to perform in a secret V Magazine after-party where she played tunes from her upcoming album “Art Pop” to an exclusive guest list that included Terry Richardson, Lidsay Lohan, The Hilton Sisters, Jeremy Scott and Jessica Alba.
Besides sitting front row on a couple of shows, Nicki Minaj also rocked the stage at the Alexander Wang after-party, twerking and doing her thing with the designer himself .We are living in an era of celebrities turned models and models turned celebrities, singer Rita Ora took the runway to close the show for DKNY, and some of our favorites celebrity super models took back the runway, spotted were top super model Joan Smalls walking for Diane Von Furstenberg, our very own Brian Shimansky at Nautica, the never ending beauty of Valentina Zelyaeva for Ralph Lauren, and rising star Miles Mcmillan at Richard Chai for Andrew Marc show.
Now that we got all that gossip out of our systems, it is time to talk fashion. Apart from all the star power seen this past week, designers did present breathtaking collections that we cannot wait to share with you. Here is our list of shows and collections no one should miss…
Desigual
This popular and vibrant brand has been under the design direction of Christian Lacroix for a few seasons now, and has chosen NY Fashion week to debut their first international show. It was a magical runway spectacle where models interacted with the audience by blowing kisses, dancing, smiling, taking pictures and having a really good time. An homage to Mod with graphic black & white prints on dresses and coats, followed by a very colorful and lively collection with touches of florals and tribe in a variety of dresses and pantsuits. Mediterranean all the way!
Custo Barcelona
A sophisticated collection presented in a soft palette of colors, feminine and with a great deal of tribal inspired prints and embroideries. Designer Custo Dalmau mixed patterns, sheer fabrics,and some metallic accents, staying a bit away from his usual eclectic and striking approach the Spanish label is known for. Our favorite element of this collection was how he strategically placed the patterns and prints on his designs to help accentuate a woman’s figure.
Herve Leger
The show opened with the traditional bandage style dress, made a little untraditional by an interesting proposal of golden zippers placed around the skirts and dresses. Strong corseted styles were next followed by bathing suits that were accented with peplum bottoms plunging necklines. More body con style dresses adorned models sporting pool sexy wet hair. Bandage type garments were updated with textures using statically placed fringe and beaded embroidery. Show stoppers in this collection included a jacket and short set and midi style dress featuring the above described play on textures.
Mara Hoffman
This season the Parsons taught designer focused on breezy pieces in bright Aztec like ethnic prints. Perfectly sun kissed models glided down the runway in flowing maxis, caftans and pants. Electric colors and strategically placed third eye emblem on dresses and caftans created fun prints that just scream spring! The theme continued as the bathing suites headed down the runway, adorned with round collar-like necklines. This combined with printed designs that created a look that resembled beaded necklaces. The show continued with electric printed maxis embedded with soft panels of beige and black, snake adorned caftans and rainbow shorts.
Rachel Zoe
The stylist turned designer showed something for everyone in her SS 2014 collection. The show opened with safari chic looks featuring olive cargo shorts, clean white layered looks, soft grey knits and a supple brown leather safari jacket and short suit. Models sported tousled locks that had been tied back adding focus to their flushed faces. Looking to the market for inspiration Zoe showed tailored pant looks as well as deconstructed denim looks. Show stoppers in this collection included sequin jogging pants, a slim sequin peplum maxi and all the amazing shoes!
Nicholas K
When it comes to my personal style and taste for fashion, I have to confess that the work of this brother-and-sister design team Nicholas and Christopher Kunz always comes on top as one of my favorite. They have open NY fashion week for years now, and this collection once again did not disappoint. They started of with monochromatic white looks, a Native American, tribal sort of feel to the overall collection, and even though the concept might sometimes be politically incorrect, they did it absolute justice. Earth tones followed by your black and grays. My favorite look was the new version of the perfect plaid shirt with gigantic plaids in grey, black and white accompanied by dropped croch shorts and jacket. Classic yet modern look. Bravo!
Osklen
This Brazilian decent brand is a complete luxurious, ready to wear global sensation. Creative director Oskar Metsavaht presented a Spring collection with brightly saturated solid colors, harmonized to perfection with gemstone clutches, sunglasses and heels. It represented the sexy exuberance of Brazilian nature, cropped layered tops, transparent coats and tunics, walked down the runway with notorious quality tailoring and exquisite fabrics. We were very excited to witness the proposal of a girl that is not afraid to be dazzling colorful, sensual and edgy without compromising her elegant integrity. We will definitely be rocking out some Osklen pieces next summer.
Richard Chai
Richard Chai created a strong collection that tricks the eye from the start, by showing a structured top in crisp white paired with a variegated red striped pants layered underneath a sheer pencil skirt. Bold brows and deep middle parts added emphasis on the strength of the rest of the garments soon to follow. The show continued with softer garments in rich reds, and embarking in a collaboration with leather brand Andrew Marc, he presented several versions of the ideal spring moto jacket perfectly layered with button ups as well as slip dresses. With much inspiration from NY, this collection also featured menswear that catered to a polished tailored type of guy who also happens to be pretty hip.
Brian Lichtenberg
This LA based designer, is popular for his cheeky and controversial t-shirts collections. He debuted his spring summer 14 collection in NY fashion week at Pier 59 Studios. We arrived to find a exquisite crowed of stylish people and fashionistas that got to see this punk rock chic, sexy and Parisian street style collection. We fell in love with the cut out jeans styled with leather bras and in some cases funky colorful jackets. We saw his signature graphics printed on sophisticated silhouettes that gave life to the future of his brand, establishing himself as menswear and womenswear designer with a ready to wear collection everyone would want a piece of.
Tracy Reese
A spring collection designed with the consumer in mind, that’s what was delivered at Tracy Reese. The designer showed a range of separates that can be mixed and matched with any of her signature style dresses. Flattering swing dresses, patterned minis and printed trousers made this collection fun and perfect for modern working women. Keeping true to her style, Tracy used lace accents and mixed floral prints with gingham to keep the clothes from looking too dated. Favorites from this collection include several well styled pencil skirt and crop top looks, a trumpet hem black maxi with mesh inserts and a strappywhite lace fishtail dress.
Ralph Lauren
Sleek models wearing mod styled garments sauntered down the runway at Ralph Lauren. True to fashion the designer showcased classic American sports wear with amazing 3 piece suits, trousers turtlenecks and skirt suits. Boxy jackets along with black and white motifs kept the mod theme as the show continued. After a stampede of black and white prints, electric hued mini shift dresses accessorized with mini bags, black knee socks and goggle like black glasses came down the runway. The last colorful model exited and like a breath of fresh air reappeared wearing a clean white moto jacket over a white mini dress with a structured skirt. Next was an ethereal white gown adorned with white flowers, followed by more crisp white looks. The show closed with Ralph showcasing another classic of his, simple yet dramatic gowns in bold colors.
Marissa Webb
This show opened with a sleek deep v dress and a full structured skirt in a metallic soft pink. The tie on the dress resembled that of a karate uniform and it represented the tomboy accents Marisa Webb is known for. As the show continued, models sashayed down the runway in vibrant red swinging mini skirts and dresses accessorized with matching ties and low slung wide belts. Silky blouses gave edgy leather accented pants a feminine touch, while ties and boxy jackets kept mini skirts and dresses looking masculine. The show ended and the designer emerged in white jeans, a silky white blouse and a tweedy jacket with leather accents. How very Marisa Webb of her.